Home / Interviews / Interview with Luis Quijano
Luis Quijano
Luis Quijano
Sr Fashion Student

Interview with Luis Quijano

Bacterial cellulose can be durable

Focusing on bold patterns and colour palettes, Luis Quijano, a student at the Liberty University in Lynchburg, Virginia, is successful in merging fashion with some unlikely counterparts - microbiology and mechanical engineering - to bring to life an idea that had long been only conceptualised: growing your own clothes. This senior fashion student has been working rigorously to create what he thinks could be the most innovative trend in fashion. Luis Quijano talks to Fibre2Fashion about using bacterial cellulose as a non-woven.

TT: Tell us about your journey so far.

My journey started with speaking about bacterial cellulose. Then I decided to explore growing the material and had the opportunity to go to Australia last summer for research. Recently, I finished my senior honor thesis, applied for the Fulbright scholarship to study in Australia, and am currently writing conference papers on bacterial cellulose. The last few years have been years of continual growth and change. I would never have expected to be in the position that I am in the field of bacterial cellulose, and am looking further to continuing research on this textile.

 
TT: Is your home-grown clothing an alternative to reduce waste due to apparels? How?

With further R&D that can improve bacterial cellulose characteristics, homegrown clothing with this medium can definitely reduce waste in the apparel and textile industry. Bacterial cellulose is unique in that it circumnavigates most steps needed for textile manufacturing in the status quo.

TT: Is the cost of developing such a fabric cheaper than those produced using other natural fibres like cotton and wool?

With future R&D, I believe that bacterial cellulose can be made at a more affordable price that could be cheaper than natural fibres like cotton and wool. Referring to the previous question, bacterial cellulose cuts out most steps of the textile manufacturing process. It removes the usage of pesticides, converting fibres to yarns, yarns into fabric, and in the future can reduce or eliminate the need for cutting the fabric before sewing. Furthermore, it is more receptive to textile dyeing, reducing effluents and toxic chemicals.

TT: How did you begin with growing your own clothes?

My journey with bacterial cellulose started while watching a Tedtalk show of Suzanne Lee describing how to grow one's clothes. The process seemed abstract to me and raised my interest. Thus, I researched bacterial cellulose and delivered an informative speech for my Liberty University forensics speech team during my sophomore undergraduate year.

TT: Your method of growing clothes incorporates various segments, including fashion, microbiology and mechanical engineering. Tell us about the process.

Bacterial cellulose and its research as a textile involve interdisciplinary means like microbiology and mechanical engineering. It involves microbiology because further research on modifying the bacteria to produce greater amounts of cellulose is necessary. Furthermore, mechanical engineering is needed to test its capabilities as research progresses with bacterial cellulose as a non-woven.

TT: What is the kind of wear and tear the leather-like fabric you have developed can sustain?

Bacterial cellulose can actually be very durable. However, I do not believe anyone has tested out its wear and tear for clothing involved in everyday usage. I believe that for a marketplace, bacterial cellulose would still need to be refined to meet the needs.


What is the kind of wear and tear the leather-like fabric you have developed can sustain?
TT: Will it be possible to dye, print and do some embroidery on such a fabric?

It is possible to dye bacterial cellulose. As for digitally printing designs, I am unsure. I know that the QUT and the State Library of Queensland used a laser cutter to create a watch with intricate details. As for embroidery, Sacha Laurin has shown bacterial cellulose can withstand additional details.


Will it be possible to dye, print and do some embroidery on such a fabric?
TT: Which materials have you used in the production of your home-grown clothes? Are those eco-friendly?

I have used white sugar, green tea, kombucha tea and distilled or boiled water as well as coconut oil, food colour and vinegar. In comparison to the status quo of how most textiles are produced, bacterial cellulose can be considered to be more eco-friendly.

TT: Do you intend to modify your manufacturing process in future? Please elaborate.

I intend to modify the manufacturing process by researching and utilising more efficient growing processes so that bacterial cellulose may be grown faster. In addition, I intend to explore methods of waterproofing bacterial cellulose.

TT: What changes have taken place in the apparel market related to sustainability?

Corporations have placed greater emphasis on corporate social responsibility and transparency in the last few years. Organisations want to give back more to the communities around them and consumers want to know whether their garments are manufactured using underage child workers, sweatshops and other abusive norms.

TT: What is the future of sustainable fashion?

Sustainable fashion in future will most likely explore further alternative textiles and utilising by-products or waste products in the creation of textiles.

TT: Tell us about the fabric variation in your home-grown clothing.

Each batch that one grows may consist of variations in thickness, colour and length depending on the size of the container and the ingredients used.

TT: What about colouring, detailing or ornamentation of the fabric? Will it be able to take all this?

Bacterial cellulose is very receptive to colours. In addition, detailing and ornamentation appears to be characteristics that bacterial cellulose can support. Sacha Laurin, founder and owner of Kombucha Couture, has utilised these various processes in creating elaborate garments from bacterial cellulose.

TT: What about imbuing it with smart technology? How amenable would that be?

Smart technology and bacterial cellulose combined may have enormous possibilities. Although I am not aware of any current initiatives that have jointly utilised the two methods, the notion of bacterial cellulose utilising smart technology seems very amenable.

TT: Are you looking to patent it? By when do you think could you go for commercial production?

Because the process of growing your own bacterial cellulose is public knowledge, it is not possible to patent that process. However, if efficient techniques or machinery and products made to grow bacterial cellulose in an improved manner were discovered, I would look into patenting those. In terms of commercial production, it ultimately is dependent on how fast R&D can take place for primarily waterproofing the textile, and subsequently instilling more desirable traits within the textile's properties.

TT: How is the R&D taking place?

Some members within the International Textile and Apparel Association coming from Cornell University, Iowa State University and Hong Kong Polytechnic University have published a few articles on or created products using bacterial cellulose and fashion R&D.

In addition, the State Library of Queensland and the Queensland University of Technology (QUT) in Australia have a partnership in which they are actively looking at R&D.

Finally, at Liberty University I have been supported by the Center for Research and Scholarship as well as various academic departments, such as the Department of Family and Consumer Sciences and the Department of Biology and Chemistry, which have guided me in the research and my senior honour thesis with the title 'Embracing bacterial cellulose as a catalyst for sustainable fashion'. 


How is the R&D taking place?
TT: How economically viable and practical could this fabric be?

No official cost analyses have been done to figure out how much cost goes into the fabric per yard or meter. However, the potential of bacterial cellulose makes it economically viable and practical. It is most optimally grown at room temperature, meaning anyone can grow it in his home.

TT: What is the roadmap set to develop the textile to a commercial standard?

Bacterial cellulose is currently in its research phase of improving the textile to become a commercial standard. This roadmap may consist of international research collaborations or various researchers analysing the ingredients to grow bacterial cellulose, shortening the growth cycle, waterproofing and experimenting with bacterial cellulose and design process.

TT: Even as your research is under way, what more qualities are you looking to develop in it?

As the research continues, modifying the fabric thickness, consistency, durability, growth cycle speed, and design techniques would be the various qualities that I would be eager to research.

TT: Have you included sustainable aspects in your designs?

In my upcoming senior design collection that I will be presenting in April, I am planning to include in my designs sustainable aspects, such as bacterial cellulose, reversible wear, zero waste design and digital printing.

TT: What yardage can it be grown into?

The yardage of bacterial cellulose can be grown into the length and width of the container.(RR)

Published on: 04/04/2018

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of technicaltextile.net.


;

Follow us