The application of Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) to fabric hand in terms of primary hand values and total hand value [1, 2] has several limitations. Firstly, the result of hand value can be by judgment (native or expert). Secondly, the interpretation of hand value (smoothness, stiffness or softness) is different from one country to another and therefore, the results obtained cannot be universally applied to different countries.  Thirdly, fabric objective measurement using the KES-F instruments is derived purely from fabric low-stress mechanical parameters in terms of tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties. The lack of visual, physiological and psychological assessments makes the interpretation of fabric hand value somewhat abstract.
The application of Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) in the textile and apparel supply chain in this paper, will be analysed by a comparative study of low-stress mechanical properties for light weight wool and wool blend fabrics and this fabric is intended for high quality mens suiting material. The objectives of this study are to determine the major mechanical properties of these fabrics commonly found in the textile and apparel supply chain. Fabrics were analysed in relation to their fibre composition, fabric construction as well as their mechanical parameters.
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This article was originally published in the advances in fibrous materials, nonwoven and technical textiles conference, (AFINT 2006), August 2006, India.
About the Founders:
Jimmy K C Lam is associated with the Institute of Textiles & Clothing, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University.
Ron Postle is associated with the School of Chemistry, University of New South Wales, Sydney 2052, Australia.